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Exposed Zipper Tutorial

Once you have all of your skirt pieces cut out, you will also wanted to cut out your pieces of fusible interfacing. These pieces should be 1” wide and the length of your zipper (refer to the video for a tip about this).
 
Fuse your interfacing strips to the right-side of your fabric where your zipper will be inserted. 
 
Change your sewing machine to a longer stitch length and baste ¾” away from the edge of your fabric from the top of your skirt piece until your zipper notch marking. Once you reach your notch marking, keep your needle in your work, pivot and sew towards your cut edge until you have sewn off your piece.  Repeat this step for your other skirt back piece.
 
Switch your machine back to a regular stitch length. Sew the centreback seam from your zipper notch to the bottom of your skirt (or until your vent marking if you have a skirt vent). Clip to your stitching at your zipper notch (and at the top of your vent if you have one). Flip the raw edge of the seam allowance towards this line of stitching you just sewed and press in place. Stitch down close to your fold (making sure to keep the body of your skirt free).
 
From the right side of your skirt, press along your ¾” basting line so that your seam allowance is on the outside of your skirt. Flip your skirt over so the wrong-side is now facing up. Place your zipper with the zipper pull facing down and pin in place. Switch the foot on your machine to a zipper foot. Baste your zipper in place, near the middle of the zipper tape, from the inside of your skirt, using a longer stitch length. 
 
Trim the excess seam allowance that is sticking out from under your zipper, making sure not to accidentally clip your zipper tape or your skirt back. 
 
From the right side of your skirt, and using a zipper foot, stitch your zipper in place using a regular stitch length (stitching close to your zipper teeth). When you get near the bottom of your zipper, use your handwheel to keep stitching until about one stitch past your zipper stopper. Leaving the needle in your work, pivot and sew across the bottom of your zipper. Once you are past the zipper tape on the other side, leave your needle in your work and again pivot. Sew up the other side of your zipper. 
 
Remove the basting stitches that were holding your zipper in place while you sewed it. 
 
The last step is to stitch down the outer edge of your zipper tape (about 1/8” from the edge). Change back to a regular presser foot.  Stitch the zipper tape in place starting from the right side. When you get close to the bottom of your zipper stop sewing (with your needle in your work). Tuck under the zipper tape at the bottom of your zipper. Continue sewing until you get to the bottom “fold” of your zipper tape. Leaving your needle in your work pivot at the bottom corner, sew across the bottom of your now folded zipper tape. When you get to the left side of your zipper stop with your needle in your work again, pivot and sew up the left side of your zipper tape. 
 
In order to finish your skirt you would now want to sew your front darts, sideseams, add your waistband and hem your skirt (and vent if applicable). 
 
Congratulations on sewing your exposed zipper!
 

 

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